Empowering Tradition: The Success Story of 23 Women Behind a Himachal Restaurant Serving Sirmauri Delights

0

Four Years of Unity and Skill: How a Group of Women in Bag Pashog Transformed Their Lives Through Culinary Craft

She-Haat

The group of homemakers from Sirmaur running ethnic She Haat restaurant. (DT Photo by Kumud Sharma)

(Sirmaur) Himachal Pradesh, Kumud Sharma, January 21:

WhatsApp Channel Join Now
Telegram Group Join Now
Instagram Join Now

“Four years ago, Reena Sharma, known as Renu, was a homemaker with little idea of the transformation that awaited her. ‘At first, people would question how women could manage a hotel or even clean toilets. Now, those same people are asking if there’s a vacancy for their wives,’ she shares with a smile. As the receptionist at ‘She Haat’, Renu not only greets guests but also doubles as a cook, playing an integral role in the success of the restaurant. This shift from traditional roles to entrepreneurial leadership has been a testament to her resilience and the changing mindset in her community.”

Nestled in the picturesque Bag Pashog village of Sirmaur district, just an hour’s drive from the charming hill town of Kasauli, a remarkable group of 23 women has turned their culinary expertise into a thriving success story. In this serene part of Himachal Pradesh, these women have blended tradition with entrepreneurship, creating a unique dining experience that not only showcases their skills but also reflects their journey of empowerment and community spirit.
She Haat, the distinctive ethnic restaurant run by this dynamic group of women, has become a culinary gem in rural Himachal Pradesh. Offering an authentic taste of traditional Sirmauri cuisine, it stands out as a one-of-a-kind venture in the region. The restaurant’s charm is not only in its flavorful dishes but also in its stunning setting, with panoramic views of the majestic Churdhar peak, making it a must-visit destination for travelers seeking both a cultural and scenic retreat.
Launched with the backing of the district administration and the village panchayat, this initiative has proven to be a game-changer for the women of Bag Pashog. Beyond providing them with financial independence, it has significantly boosted their confidence, enabling them to break free from traditional limitations. The venture has empowered them to take charge of their futures, turning their culinary skills into a thriving business that has transformed not only their lives but also the dynamics of their community.
In addition to the ethnic restaurant, which features a cozy kitchen and welcoming seating area, the site also boasts a vibrant ‘rural haat.’ Here, the women, dressed in cheerful pink suits, offer a range of handmade handicrafts and organic produce harvested from their own farms. The project further enriches the experience with a two-room guest house, allowing visitors to enjoy a peaceful stay, while lush green spaces provide a serene environment for relaxation amidst nature’s beauty.
A Resilient, Self-Sustaining Model That Withstood the Pandemic’s Challenges
What sets She Haat apart is its self-sustaining financial model, which blends tradition with sustainability. The women prepare the restaurant’s authentic dishes using fresh vegetables, milk, homemade ghee, and spices either grown on their own farms or sourced from nearby local farms. At the end of each month, the profits are shared among the staff, after covering necessary expenses. To ensure transparency, the balance sheet is submitted for review to the local Pachhad sub-divisional magistrate (SDM), who serves as the ex-officio head of the She-Haat society, ensuring accountability and trust within the community.

“The people who eat or stay here appreciate the homely atmosphere, and that’s the care we put into the place,” says Renu, who has become the heart and soul of She Haat. “From cooking to housekeeping, every woman here takes on all tasks, whether she is illiterate or a graduate. We’ve maintained this place like our own home, and that’s why She Haat has not only survived but is thriving. If women are united, they can achieve anything. We never imagined our local food could take us so far.” Despite the challenges she faces, including raising her two children alone after her husband abandoned them, Renu walks 4 km daily from her village, Tikri Pajerli, to She Haat, driven by her passion and commitment to the success of the venture.

Opened in December 2020, at the height of the global pandemic, She Haat faced immense challenges, yet it ‘even survived Covid.’ The women behind the restaurant attribute its resilience to the unwavering support and dedication of R K Pruthi, the Sirmaur deputy commissioner at the time, and the then village pradhan, Parkash Dutt Bhatia. Their continuous efforts ensured that the restaurant remained afloat despite the low footfall, always making sure there were enough orders to keep the women working and the business alive. It was their combined leadership and commitment that helped She Haat weather the storm and emerge stronger.

“During the Covid period, we received orders to prepare meals for government offices, hospital staff, and patients,” says Renu, her voice steady and determined as she answers phone calls and issues receipts at the reception. “There were months when we worked without pay, but we never allowed the venture to close.” Her words reflect the resilience and dedication of the women of She Haat, who, despite the hardships, kept the restaurant running and continued to serve their community. Renu’s leadership has been a driving force, ensuring the survival of the business even in the most difficult times.

The restaurant boasts an extensive ‘hill special’ menu, offering a delightful array of local dishes that showcase the rich culinary heritage of the region. From pateela dal and local mushrooms to jimmikand (yam) and patande (crepes), every dish is a tribute to Sirmauri flavors. Guests can enjoy siddu with ghee, patile and loshike (pancakes), bathu ki kheer, makki ki ate ki pinni, and the signature Sirmauri thaali, which includes dal, kadhi, askali, poodey, and kheer. Other specialities like lushka, saag, bedwi (parantha), and geeche (pakora made from arbi leaves) are also served, all at incredibly affordable prices. The meals are prepared on a traditional chulha, or clay stove, adding an authentic touch to the local fare.
At the shop, the women sell a variety of locally made products, including organic ghee, freshly crushed spices, pickles, squashes, hand-woven baskets, chapati boxes, and more. “Even women who don’t work directly at She Haat can send their products here for sale,” Renu explains. “We also support the community by purchasing groceries for the restaurant from local women, helping to boost their income.” This initiative not only strengthens the local economy but also fosters a spirit of collaboration and mutual support among the women of the village.
“The Beginnings of She Haat: A Journey of Empowerment and Innovation”

IAS officer R K Pruthi, hailed as the driving force behind the project, highlights the pressing issue of a lack of safe and hygienic washrooms for women travelers along the highway. “This was a real concern in the area,” he explains. “We needed a group of women who would manage such a facility with the same care and attention as they would their own homes.” Pruthi’s vision extended beyond just creating a restroom facility—he wanted to establish an economically sustainable project. “The next step was to make it viable, so we decided to revive traditional food. Who better to prepare it than the local women, who possess the true expertise in these recipes?” As the former deputy commissioner of Sirmaur, Pruthi’s insight and commitment laid the foundation for what would become She Haat, blending local heritage with empowerment.

“I am proud to say that the women working here are not afraid to take on any task—whether it’s cleaning the washrooms, stitching, knitting, or preparing food—they do it all,” says R K Pruthi, now the Registrar of Cooperative Societies, Himachal Pradesh. “She Haat stands as a shining example of how rural tourism can empower women to become self-reliant. It’s not just about running a business; it’s about fostering confidence and breaking down traditional barriers, showing that women in rural areas can lead and thrive in ways they never imagined before.”

“She Haat is not just a place of business but also an eco-friendly haven, offering fresh, mountain-sourced drinking water, solar panels, and a rainwater harvesting system,” shares R K Pruthi. “Our role was to set up the initial infrastructure for the project, which included constructing rooms, a kitchen, and other essential facilities. The total cost amounted to around Rs 70 lakh, with land provided by the village panchayat. To fund the venture, we sought support from multiple sources, including NABARD, the state tourism department, and various CSR initiatives.” Pruthi’s efforts ensured that She Haat not only serves as a model for women’s empowerment but also promotes sustainable practices within the community.

“The women here truly deserve all the credit for their unwavering teamwork and determination in making this venture a success, despite the numerous challenges they faced, including the hardships of Covid,” says Pruthi. “This project is a one-of-a-kind initiative in Himachal Pradesh, where a group of women has come together, stayed united, and worked tirelessly to turn their dreams into reality. Their collective spirit and resilience have not only overcome obstacles but also set a powerful example of what women can achieve when they support one another.”

He adds that before She Haat officially opened its doors, the women underwent specialized training in hospitality, food hygiene, and finance management to equip them with the skills necessary to run the venture successfully. “We wanted to ensure they were not only prepared to cook and serve but also capable of managing the business efficiently,” he explains. This comprehensive training helped the women build confidence, enabling them to take on various roles within the restaurant and contribute to its seamless operation, ensuring both quality service and financial sustainability.

Former village head Bhatia, who played a pivotal role in overcoming the on-ground challenges during the launch, reflects, “Everyone had to be counseled, including the women, their husbands, and in-laws. I visited home after home, mobilizing the women and encouraging them to join the initiative.” He recalls how, in the beginning, the women received no financial compensation but continued to work tirelessly, driven by a shared vision. “Their dedication and unity have turned She Haat into a success, and today, they have set a remarkable example for the entire state of Himachal Pradesh,” Bhatia adds, proud of the collective achievement.

‘The True Satisfaction of Financial Independence’
At She Haat, the women come from diverse backgrounds—one is a graduate, another never had the chance to attend school, a third was married off as a child, while yet another is a divorcee. Despite their differences, they all share a common sentiment: they never imagined a world beyond the confines of their homes. This shared experience has fostered a deep sense of ownership and pride in their work. “We take care of She Haat as if it’s our own home,” they say, united by their journey of empowerment and the newfound freedom that has allowed them to dream and build a life beyond traditional boundaries.

The women of She Haat often share that the most fulfilling aspect of their journey is the newfound financial independence they’ve gained. “We no longer have to ask anyone for money, even for our smallest needs or desires,” they say with a sense of pride. This sense of autonomy has not only transformed their personal lives but has also boosted their confidence, allowing them to make decisions for themselves and their families without relying on others. It’s a freedom that has reshaped their sense of self-worth and created a profound sense of empowerment.

Anita Sharma, 50, the head of the workers at She Haat, hails from Genyana village, just 4 km away. Reflecting on the journey, she says, “By the time our outlet was officially opened, Covid had struck. Par humne himmat nahi chodi (But we did not give up).” Before joining She Haat, Anita spent her days rearing cattle and staying at home. Now, she leads a team of women who work on an hourly basis in shifts. Regular workers earn a guaranteed sum of Rs 3,500 per month, which can increase to Rs 4,000-5,000 after profits are shared equally. “More than the money, what truly matters is how it has transformed the lives of women here,” Anita adds, proud of the independence and empowerment they’ve gained through their work at She Haat.

Baahar ki duniya ka humein kya pata tha… maangna padta tha paisa (What did we know about the world… We had to ask for money),” says Anita, who completed her education up to Class 12. Reflecting on the early days, she shares how, for the first three to four months, they worked without pay. “But soon, people started praising and paying for our food and services. It was overwhelming,” she continues. “Now, it feels so good when people appreciate our food. It’s a reminder of how far we’ve come, from asking for money to earning it through our hard work and dedication.

Gayatri, 40, from Tikri Pajerli village, who has studied up to Class 10, expresses a profound sense of satisfaction: “Not having to ask anyone for money, not even my husband, is deeply fulfilling. I never imagined that the food I cook would be so appreciated.” Living in a joint family, Gayatri acknowledges the support of her in-laws, who encouraged her to pursue work at She Haat. “Their support allowed me to join this venture and contribute in a way I never thought possible,” she says, grateful for the opportunity that has not only brought her financial independence but also recognition for her skills.

Kamla, 41, from Bag Pashog, emphasizes that the key to their venture’s success lies in the unity of the women involved. “My husband runs a repair shop, and I’ve studied only till Class 10. In the beginning, people mocked us, saying we’d only be cleaning utensils and washrooms. But now, those same people are asking if we can find work for their wives or sisters at She Haat,” she reflects with pride. “Our unity has been our strength. Even when we argue or disagree, it’s only for a few minutes—then we come together again. That bond is what has made us successful.” Kamla’s words embody the resilience and collective spirit that have driven She Haat to thrive, transforming the community’s perception of what women can achieve.

Renu shares her personal journey, saying, “After my husband left us, my in-laws always supported me, but I wanted to do something on my own. At first, I struggled to even talk to others. This job has given me the opportunity to contribute to the education of both my children. My daughter is now pursuing postgraduation, and my son is working towards his graduation.” She proudly adds, “Today, we generate sales of Rs 10,000 or more a day, and monthly, it reaches Rs 3-4 lakh. After covering maintenance and input costs, each woman earns between Rs 4,000 and Rs 6,000, depending on the shifts. It’s a stable income that has transformed our lives.”

Tara Devi, 56, a widow from Tikri Pajeli, recalls the hardships she faced after her husband’s death, when she worked at an Anganwadi to support her children. “At She Haat now, our work is truly valued,” she says, reflecting on how far she has come. “Talking to strangers used to be a huge challenge for me. I was just 13 when my parents married me off to a man 20 years older than me. After his death, I was left to raise two children alone. I never went to school.” Despite these early challenges, Tara is proud of her personal growth. “Now, I can read and even write a little,” she adds with a smile, grateful for the empowerment and confidence she has gained through her work at She Haat.

Meera Thakur, 47, a divorcee, reflects on how She Haat has given her a fresh start. “None of us ever imagined having our own restaurant, where people would pay for our desi food,” she says with a sense of accomplishment. “After my marriage fell apart, I thought my world had come to an end. But now, it feels like life has just begun.” The success of She Haat has not only provided Meera with a stable livelihood but has also renewed her sense of purpose, allowing her to embrace new opportunities and rediscover her strength.

Diary Times is now on Whatsapp Channels. Click here to join

(Diary Times– Shimla’s independent hyperlocal community news website covering local news, stories, events, food, music, fashion, sports, nightlife, entertainment & more since 2019 is now on Google News. Click here to follow. Also, join Diary Times Channel in your Telegram. You may also follow us on Twitter here and stay updated.

 

Kumud Sharma

https://diarytimes.com/

Continuing the achievement of the journey of effectiveness and credibility of more than 10 years in the career of journalism, as a woman journalist, I am Serving as the founder, promoter and editor of DiaryTimes with the trust and support of all. My credible coverage may not have given a big shape to the numbers, but my journey presents articles that make you aware of the exact and meaningful situations of Himachal’s politics, ground issues related to the public, business, tourism and the difficult geographical conditions of the state and financial awareness. DiaryTimes, full of the experience of my precise editorial expertise, is awakening the flame of credible journalism among all of you, so that the eternal flame of meaningful change can be lit in the life of the people of the state and the atrocities being committed against the people can be brought to the fore, I am motivated for that. If even a small change comes with the power of my journalism and the whole world becomes a witness to that issues, then I will consider myself fortunate.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *